Luxury watchmaking is experiencing a stunning transformation, with bangle watches becoming a major growth driver for high-end brands. This shift is all about capturing the hearts (and wallets) of younger, style-savvy consumers. It's a fascinating intersection of artistry and strategy, and it's reshaping the landscape of the luxury market.
From the venerable halls of Vacheron Constantin to the iconic ateliers of Cartier and Chanel, heritage brands are now heavily investing in gem-studded designs and bangle formats. These aren't just pretty accessories; they represent a clever recalibration of business strategies in a market that's constantly evolving.
Take, for instance, Vacheron Constantin's latest Grand Lady Kalla. Unveiled during their 270th-anniversary celebrations, this exquisite piece is now available in sapphire, ruby, and emerald variations, following the initial all-diamond debut in 2024. Each watch is a masterpiece, seamlessly blending high jewellery craftsmanship with technical precision, featuring interchangeable components that transform from a classic timepiece to a chic bracelet or even a stunning necklace.
The popularity of bangle watches has exploded in the last five years, with jewellery brands leading the charge. In 2019, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its Perlée Toi & Moi watches. These open bangles feature colorful hardstones that cleverly reveal the time when slid aside. For Van Cleef & Arpels, known for its long history of creating jewellery watches on rigid bracelets, this collection was a showcase of their dual expertise in jewellery and horology.
In 2021, Dior unveiled the Gem Dior, a watch launched alongside its jewellery collection of the same name. Its unique, jagged links, reminiscent of fabric swatches and gemstone facets, blurred the line between a watch and a piece of jewelry. That same year, Chaumet unveiled the Joséphine Aigrette, a pear-shaped watch inspired by their best-selling jewellery line. Boucheron also joined the trend with its Montres d’Exception collection, which includes several models set on rigid bangles, one of which traces the outline of Place Vendôme across its dial.
Rémi Jomard, director of product and innovation at Piaget, believes the debate over whether a bangle watch is a jewel or a timepiece is missing the point. He quotes Yves Piaget, who stated: "A watch is first and foremost a piece of jewellery." This statement perfectly encapsulates the essence of this trend.
But here's where it gets controversial... The real turning point came in 2023, when Cartier reintroduced its Baignoire watch, a design that dates back to 1912, on a rigid gold bracelet at the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva.
Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s director of watchmaking and jewellery design, explained that instead of changing the watch, they chose to wear it differently. The goal was to transcribe this watch into the future. The approach was understated yet radical, hence the bangle.
The launch was an instant success. The Baignoire mini bangle sold out quickly, with the 18ct yellow and rose gold versions, priced at €15,900, disappearing from Cartier's website only to reappear later.
According to Kelly Best, head of UK watch buying for Watches of Switzerland, the success of Cartier’s Baignoire lies in its ability to tick several boxes. It embodies key trends like a smaller case size, the timeless appeal of precious metals, and a sleek bangle that's perfect for layering.
Donatella Zappieri, a jewellery business development consultant, believes Cartier’s Baignoire has created a new product category, setting a blueprint for others to follow.
This autumn, two such hybrids made their debut — Aeterna by Bvlgari and Chanel’s Première Galon — both reinterpretations of popular house classics.
Jonathan Birnbaum, Bvlgari’s managing director for watches, traces the origins of Aeterna to the brand’s Viper jewellery collection, a more abstract evolution of its iconic Serpenti motif.
At Chanel, Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the company’s Watchmaking Creation Studio, found inspiration for the new Première in one of the brand’s most emblematic couture codes, the braid. The rigid bangle is a direct translation of this couture element, a twisted braid of 18ct yellow gold.
Asked whether the result is more jewel or timepiece, Chastaingt leaves the question open. "It is jewellery that tells time, and a watch that functions as a jewel," he says.
And this is the part most people miss... This trend highlights a fundamental shift in how luxury brands are approaching their products, blurring the lines between different categories to appeal to a wider audience. What do you think about this trend? Do you see bangle watches as primarily jewellery or timepieces? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
